Log #39—The Panama Canal

A Day in the Panama Canal

I expected a lot more from The Canal. After all, it is one of the major crossroads of the world, a so-called triumph of human ingenuity and hard work. Yes, it took nearly 32 years to build the canal. Yes, it saves thousands of miles for ships trying to get from one ocean and continent to another. Yes, it is a water superhighway of sorts, enabling vessels to cross the continental divide. Yes, since it's completion in 1914, nearly 850,000 vessels have transited the waterway. And yes, one super dude, Richard Halliburton even swam across the Canal in 1928 for 28 cents. He got off cheap; the cargo vessel Sisler paid $184,114.80 for the privilege of transiting in 2000.

Miraflores Locks—It's As Easy As It Looks

But you see, it was dirty—really dirty. And old. Even ancient. And all the ships around us were dirty and old too. Dirty, old, and rusty. Dirty, old, rusty, and noisy. My question was, "Where are the gorgeous new super-cruise ships?" I wanted to jump and wave and shout at all the people on deck. Well I did sort of, from our aft head window, when one cruise ship passed by. Not optimal viewing.

And then there was the interminable wait. The canal authorities made us hang out anchored at the entrance of the Canal for nine days before we could cross. When we finally did, it was just too easy. They should have let us sail on through. All of the boats around us were so enormous; they wouldn't have even noticed us squeak by.

But they did notice us, and they took our money, bunches, for the privilege of watching water—lots of it—go up and down in holding pens. Well, that's what the locks looked like. I had the opportunity of observing the process first hand.

My husband appointed me one of the chief line handlers. I did everything I could to avoid the privilege, but there was no escaping it. And it's amazing that I didn't get fired on the spot. As we tied Andanté, spread-eagle style, in the first chamber, I had such a great time looking at the enormity of the walls around us that I let the first line thrown to me pass through the cleat. Oops … all hands on deck to the rescue. Another line was thrown down. We properly secured it and then proceeded to watch the multitude of water pour into the lock.

The second and third locks were a piece of cake. In fact the whole experience, though fascinating, was a bit disappointing. I'd expected a series of complicated gyrations to get us through the locks, but it was relatively easy; extremely easy. There were only three sets of locks to go through, with a total of six chambers.

For the second and third sets of locks, we were tied to the side of a workhorse tugboat. All we had to do was settle in for the fun. By end of day, we were in the Colon bay watching the unmistakable sway of coconut palms, silhouetted against aquamarine, clear seas and artist's palette evening sky. The Caribbean beckoned us.

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